A popular topic of discussion among my friends is based on the thought that there are certain places in Tehran that MUST be visited. Having visited all these places is almost like a badge of honor.
For some time now, I’ve been trying to compile a list of these places and unsurprisingly found it to be a pretty big list. So here is a list of 19 places that, for one reason or another, represent Tehran’s quintessential dining experience. I stopped at 19 because I’m sure there are plenty of suggestions for number 20! The list is in alphabetical order:
1. Akbar Masti
The origin and source of Iran’s national ice cream is subject to much debate. The saffron and rosewater flavored ice cream was first served on Rey Street (South Tehran) in a shop that is still operating. But the real Akbar Mashti can be found on Shahrdari Street between Tajrish and Ghods squares. And indeed it is a true original.
2. Bahar Kebab
At the end of Bahar Street, just before the intersection with Bahar-e-Shiraz Street, it is arguably one of the best sources of chopped kebab (Koubideh) in Tehran. It’s not pretty, but the combination of the hot kebab and bread fresh from the clay oven makes for a delicious meal.
3. Cafe Naderi
As one of Tehran’s most iconic restaurant/cafes, Café Naderi is revered for its “Chateaubriand” steak and of course its selection of coffees. Once famous as the hangout for Tehran’s literati, Café Naderi, which is situated on Jomhuri Road near the Ferdowsi intersection, is now used more to cater to tourists and diplomats.
4. Estakhr Vanak
This simple and efficient restaurant is famous for its spring chicken kebab. There doesn’t seem to be anything complicated about it, but somehow they manage to make a better chicken kebab than anywhere else in Tehran.
5. Feraidoon Sandwich
This popular sandwich shop is commonly known by a very unflattering name (which will not be used here). They serve a typical set of hot and cold sandwiches including chicken, steak and tongue. It is particularly famous for its large fries which are fantastic. The store is located at the end of Eshgyar Street (also known as Niloufar) near Khoramshahr Avenue and is instantly recognizable by its old sign.
6. Dizisara (Iranshahr)
Considered by many to be the best place in Tehran for traditional abgoosht (braised meat), this restaurant is a place where people from all walks of life come together to enjoy a hearty meal in traditional settings. The service is at the speed of light to be able to face the constant queue of clients abroad. An especially lovely place to visit for non-Iranians. Dizisara is located on Azarshahr Street between Iranshahr Street and Gharani Street.
7. Disciple at Takhti Square
No one is quite sure what this place is called and no one bothers to ask. All you have to say is “Dizi in Takhti Square” and it’s clear. This restaurant operates for only a few hours during lunch. Before lunch, the dizi is still cooking and around 2:00 pm they are exhausted. Demand is tremendous so go early. The exact location is on Vatani Street, below a large car dealership.
8. Jose’s Sandwiches
The tiny kitchen of this little shop (just down the street from Feraidoon) manages to serve up a surprisingly large number of sandwiches in a day. The Olivier Salad sandwich is one of my favorites in Tehran, although Joseph is also very famous for his deli sandwiches. Don’t be surprised if the guy in front of you in line orders 30 sandwiches. Those are typical Joseph clients.
9.Joshbin
This is a very small restaurant, although you wouldn’t notice it because of the amount of people inside. Khoshbin, which is situated on Saadi Street just after Manoochehri Street, is generally known as Hassan Rashti. In my many visits I have never met Hassan and I really don’t know if he exists, but the authenticity of the Rashti food is beyond question. Try the salted fish roe and walnuts for starters, then order everything else on the menu. It’s so good.
10. Cosravi
Some of the foods on this list are unhealthy and not everyone’s cup of tea. Khosravi serves an Iranian adaptation of the Russian fried Pirozhki and offers them with a variety of fillings such as sweet cream, potato and meat. It is located on Jomhuri street, just before the intersection of Hafez. If you go there take a taxi because in addition to beating the traffic you will want to take off those rich calories walking.
11.Moby-Dick
Many of us have heard of our parents’ fantastic feasts at Moby Dick, which today caters to the masses in a “drive-through” format. The system is like a school canteen. You grab a tray and walk through a long buffet taking your order from the servers behind the counter. Options include a wide variety of freshly cooked Iranian and international dishes at reasonable prices. Most people go there for the famous Moby Dick Chelo-Kebab. The restaurant is located on Gharani street.
12. muslim
As one of the many restaurants in the Grand Bazaar, Moslem is situated on the square at the entrance to the Bazaar. As soon as you step foot inside the door and are ushered upstairs in a row, you grab a tray, grab your drink, grab your side dishes and order your food which is delivered to you within minutes.
13. Nayeb (Vozara)
Among Tehran foodies it is almost a sin not to have visited the old Nayeb on Vozara Street and once you try the steak kebab (Barg) you will understand why this branch of Nayeb has such a huge following.
14. Pray Lohme
It is surprising how many people who know Reza Loghme have not tried it. This little sandwich shop only serves one main item known as Loghme, which is fried minced meat wrapped in thin Lavash flatbread. It is one of the cheapest meals in the city and this is probably reflected in the quality of the meat. But the taste of juicy meat draws so many people to Calle 30 de Tir that it’s a real struggle to order.
15.Reyhoon
Named for the herb that accompanies all of their dishes, Reyhoon offers a variety of kebabs served only with freshly baked bread. Although the prices are not low, almost every item on the menu is perfectly prepared. Start with the chopped kebab and then work your way down the menu.
16.Sahand
Some people are not familiar with Sahand even though it has a strong reputation for serving one of the best Chelo-Kebabs in town. Their menu is reminiscent of Tabriz restaurants and includes some interesting chicken or lamb kebab options. Unusually, they also bake their own mini sized Sangak bread. Sahand is located on North Mofateh Street before the Motahari intersection.
17. Seyed Mehdi
This midnight hangout is famous for three things: the traditional ice cream, the hot broth, and the traffic jam on Vali Asr street. Seyed Mehdi is actually two shops side by side, one serving ice cream and Faloudeh (frozen noodles), the other shop serving hot broth (Aash) and wheat porridge (Haleem). They close shortly after midnight and open just four hours later. You can find Seyed Mehdi while heading south from Tajrish Square along Vali Asr Street.
18. Shandiz
This restaurant is all about lamb chops. Of course, they serve all kinds of kebabs, but almost everyone goes there for their famous lamb chops, marinated and grilled in traditional Shandiz/Mashad style. There are very few places that serve meat of this quality in Tehran. I have personally seen someone consume 3.5 skewers (that’s 18 lamb chops) in one sitting.
19. Yegane
Walking into Yeganeh is like stepping back in time because they serve the same style of sandwiches that were popular during our childhood. Whether you want a Brain Sandwich or a hot Bandari Sausage, you can be sure it will be heavy, oily, and exceptionally delicious.
